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Want to do your own servicing?? need some pointers??

 

well, I hope to put some here.

 

Brake pads 

EBC hh  part numbers FA188hh (x2 front) FA63hh (x1 rear)

Stripping and cleaning the calipers is a relatively simple task if the correct tools are available. A suggested method is HERE.

DP brake pads, part number SDP216HH+ (x2 front) are the supersport compound. Seem to be better than the EBC's, less rubbing noise, and better stopping ability, both dry and wet. 

Oil

Standard is 10W-40 Suzuki oil.

Oil filter, Part number 16510-34E00

To remove oil filter it is preferable to get the proper filter wrench. If possible, one that a spanner can be fitted to as the pipes and oil cooler make it a right royal pain to get a ratchet in there, with or without a knuckle joint.

 

Brake and Clutch fluid

Standard is Dot 4 , good replacement is Dot 4 Castrol Response. Rear brake has 2 bleed nipples..

Clutch fluid is known to turn black...a fix is available HERE

 

Spark Plugs

Stock are NGK CR9E 's  Equivalent to the Denso U27ESR-N

Upgrades can be to NGK CR9EK or Denso U27ESR-NZU (platinum electrode) supposedly a small power increase...or the Iriduim centre electrode from Denso IU27. Expect to pay twice as much for the platinum plug, and the iridium is twice as much as the platinum...

Plug gap of 0.7-0.8mm

 

Coolant

50/50 mix distilled water and antifreeze

Filling system can be a pain...fill at radiator cap, until it bubbles out with engine running, replace cap, lean bike over as far as possible both sides a few times, until fan comes on. let cool, replenish at radiator cap. then fill overflow bottle to full mark. Temperature gauge needle shouldn't go above half way.

A few people have had problems with the LH Side bottom radiator hose leaking. If you are noticing coolant overflowing.. check here and tighten clamp if necessary.

 

Injector Cleaner

A regular flush through with injector cleaner to keep the fuel system in top notch condition...if it still causes problems then the fuel filters need to be cleaned.

 

Fuel Hoses

Best to replace the return line with Stainless braided line. you will need 270mm length of 8mm I/D hose, and 2 8-16 jubilee clips (I found that #12 and #14 hose clamps were either too small or too big. a totally adjustable jubilee is the way forward.

As for the main feed, it is difficult to stop the stainless hose kinking while lowering the tank, and thus I stayed with the preformed stock line. But I installed it with a clockwise 1/4 twist in at the petcock end to stop it kinking, and also ensure that when lowering the tank the hose goes underneath the wiring loom rather than getting hooked up on it.

When removing or replacing, turn off petcock, and use bungs under rear hump to block the return spigot on the tank. It is best to get into the red zone on the fuel gauge, then little, if any, fuel comes out of the return spigot when the tank is lifted. REMEMBER TO TURN THE PETCOCK BACK ON BEFORE STARTING.

 

 

 

 

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