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TO STOP THE CLUTCH FLUID TURNING BLACK

(I give credit for the idea for this mod to Animal (AKA Louis) a friend and fellow busa owner from dot.org days) 

TOOLS NEEDED IN ADDITION TO BIKE TOOLKIT 


New, clean dot 4 compatible brake and clutch fluid 
Your bleeding kit of preference 
1/4" drive set 
WD40 
Clean rags (lint free, ripped up cotton sheet is the way forward!) 
Circlip pliers (straight, squeeze to open) 
Circle of rubber about 4" diameter (don't want to go short!) 
Silicone RTV adhesive/sealant 

GET TO THE PROBLEM!! 


Remove LH SIDE lower fairing 
Remove speed sensor 
Scratch mark from shift shaft to gear linkage, undo and remove pinch bolt, remove gear linkage 
Undo 8mm bolts holding sprocket cover 
Remove sprocket cover 
Push finger inside, and remove, the black rubber bung on bottom right bolt.
You will find all the chain area oily and dirty. I like to keep this area clean..Spray with WD40 and wipe off the crap...keep spraying and wiping until it is clean! 

PUSHROD 


Pull out pushrod, clean with WD40, wipe clean and reinstall. 
Do this as quick as possible as some oil will escape from the rubber seal. This is just residual oil, but better in than out. 

PISTON 


Wipe around the inside of the bore, then holding sprocket cover upside down over a clean container, pump clutch lever until the piston can be popped out (may need a gentle pull) drain the fluid into the container. 
Remove the spring attached to back of piston, noting how it goes, wipe all clean. (Now I use a liberal spraying of brake and clutch cleaner, as there are no rubber parts in there, but this is not recommended...compressed air would be much better) 
Set to one side. 

BORE AND MASTER CYLINDER


Again, clean all of this in your chosen manner, 
I then removed the Master cylinder cover and rubber, wiped all the blackness as far as I could, then a paintbrush is good for cleaning the sight glass, this takes some time and trying different angles of attack. 
Finally make sure no bristles are in the reservoir and that it is clean. 

I poured in some fluid and pumped it down the open ended clutch line...it will come out clear soon! It gets very dirty and is a pain to clean. The complete cleaning process probably takes about 1 hour. 

REINSTALL PART 1 


With everything clean I installed the spring on the piston, wiped a little clean fluid around the piston then installed it, pushing it firmly back into its bore. 

FIX 


I cut a circle of rubber inner tube a little oversize than the outer diameter of the bore, then folded in half, then half again to find middle, and snipped off the tip to give a hole directly in the middle (big enough to let pushrod through, but small enough that it rubbed on the rod...so pretty small) 

With piston in the bore I proceeded to apply silicone RTV sealant and adhesive to the outside of the piston bore lip.... You will see when you get in there. I then stuck the rubber to this, applying more silicone to make it look well and truly siliconed up! 

Let this dry. 

REINSTALL PART 2 


Re-install the sprocket cover, not forgetting the black rubber piece that you removed with your finger from bottom RH Side bolt. It slots in really snuggly. 
Tighten bolts evenly, making sure dowels are correctly located.
Then torque to specified torque 

Install speedo pickup, tighten cap head bolt to specified torque. 

WHILE YOU ARE AT IT 


With the circlip pliers, remove the circlip holding on the gear shifter. Remove it, clean it and re-grease the shaft. I like the High temperature waterproof mechanical brake grease (its green, costs about 3 for a tube, but is excellent and lasts for ages if you use it properly, works on the rear brake lever, gear lever, brakes, levers, oil pressure switch...) 
Re-install and put on circlip, making sure it slots into grove. 

BLEED SYSTEM 


I use a syringe and length of tube and start filling the reservoir and sucking the air out from the bleed nipple. I do this until most of the air is out, then dispense with the syringe in favor of the more traditional method of pumping, squeezing then undo nipple, close nipple, and repeat. This saves so much time and phaffing around, and is really clean. 
Tighten nipple, put on dust cover. 
Wipe dry and reinstall rubber master cylinder diaphragm, and lid. 

REINSTALL FINAL 


Line up the score mark on the shift shaft and splined collar, push on, insert pinch bolt and torque down. Check all looks as it did, but cleaner 
Put on LH Side fairing.
Remove greasy finger prints.

GO RIDE!

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