#1 Use 2 zipties to poke the clutch plates out from the back. easier than hooking them out with a pick.

#2 Front suspension settings for a good road holding ride...Preload 6 lines, Compression 6 clicks from fully in, Rebound 4 clicks from fully in

#3 Rear suspension settings to match #2 Static sag at 10mm, Compression 15 clicks from fully in, Rebound 12 clicks from fully in

#5 Clean fuel system regularly. While in there, check main feed and return line for kinking. Ensure wiring loom and aftermarket goodies (like alarm) are not hindering the main feed as the tank is lowered.

#6 Install main feed and then put a 1/8th turn clockwise twist in it. This makes the angle correct when the tank is lowered.

#7 on 1999 and early 2000 models the return line is prone to kinking. Ensure the crankcase breather goes inside the return bend, and if it shows signs of kinking, replace it. Best replacement is the 2000 pre formed return lines.

#8 If bike is running poorly, first check plugs for gap and tightness. Then balance throttle bodies and check fuel lines. If symptoms still persist, clean fuel system. Finally, if no other cure, I have had success by removing the injector filters.

#9 Use verniers or calipers to check the rear wheel alignment. Use the machined surfaces on the swingarm and the axle mounting blocks. 1mm difference at the axle is 3cm runout at the tyre.

#10 Zip tie the front brake to the handle bar overnight. Will cause any trapped air to rise to the master cylinder (area of least pressure) and give a much improved brake feel. (thanks Bill / Uncle Festa)

#11 When replacing brake pads, remove master cylinder cover, then push pistons right back into calipers (right back...) Ensure fluid doesn't overflow. This will help eliminate the memory effect of the rubber seals and therefore the pads rubbing on the rotors. (thanks Dennis / TheMotorhead)

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