Some have found that whilst idling in traffic the Hayabusa starts to run pretty rough. Well, a cause of this is the heating up of the IATS. The sensor is situated on the underside of the air box, LH Side. It is a brass bodied sensor screwed into a brass collar in the air box. there is an insulating washer. 

The visible part of the IATS is a green plastic connector mounted rigidly to the sensor. attached to this is the opposing black plastic connector which forms part of the wiring loom. 

The IATS is a thermistor (clever little electronic thermometer) that measures the temperature of the air entering the bike and adjusts the fuelling map accordingly. The colder it is, the more fuel it supplies. Conversely the warmer it is the less fuel it supplies....hence, while sitting in traffic, or moving slowly for any length of time, the heat from the motor is not easily dissipated by wind flow. and rises...straight onto the IATS which gets hot, and leans out the mixture to an extent that the bike starts running badly.


Tools needed in addition to standard bike toolkit.. 
Soldering iron and fluxed solder. 
18 inches of twin core electrical wire 
black insulation tape 
tube clear silicone 
nut and bolt to cover hole in air box. 

remove front and rear seats 
lift tank and prop using stay. 

unplug the black connector, and using a spanner loosen the IATS. Remove it with fingers, carefully, ensuring the washer is removed too. 

Find a suitable bolt that will either fit directly into the threaded collar, or, as I have done, a nut and bolt that goes inside the air box and bolts right through. (I have a car seatbelt bolt that does the trick. a large flat head 3/4" square to seal the hole and 3/4" long shank)

Apply a little silicone sealant to the head of the bolt (to ensure air tightness and to stop from rattling undone) and install in the hole. Tighten.

Remove LH Side inner front fairing panel (the one that goes up beside the windscreen) and LH Side fairing.

you will see the fuse box. Just to the left of that is a black plastic ram air tube. if you look at the tube it is fatter in that part than anywhere else. This is the place to make a hole. On the top, just to the left of the fuse box, in the middle of the tube flat. 

I started a hole with a drill bit and hand, then gradually melted a larger hole with a soldering iron. Keep trying the sensor until it just screws in to the hole, but still quite tight (we don't want it flopping around). Mount the sensor, and add a small dab of silicone to the underside of the nut flat to stop it undoing through vibration. 

I then cut (about 4" back from black connector) and lengthened the loom with the black connector on (I added about 8 inches of wire and rerouted it to look normal, following the existing loom forward around the frame and then up towards the fuse box.) adding a nice length of heat shrink tubing over the connection before soldering. 

I then taped the loom back up with black insulating tape...looks like original connection!! 

Connect up, start bike and make sure no FI lights....(if there are you probably have a poor connection where you just added the wire)

Put plastic back on, check installed bolt in air box for tightness, remove greasy/mucky finger prints, lower tank, reinstall seats and replace toolkit and stay....job done!!