Fitting 2000 model return lines to 99 busa's and also
replacing kinked lines
okay, try to get the fuel guage into the red zone.. this will save a hell of
a lot of bother and fuel spillage.
most of this procedure is done by kneeling on Left hand side of bike.
remove seat bolts and then seat, remove tank bolts, lift tank and support with
stay from the rear compartment.
also in rear compartment are 2 black rubber bungs...directly under the cross
member on the Right hand side.. you might need to lever them up a touch with a
flat bladed scredriver to get them off.
1 big, 1 small. big is for main petcock, small is for return nipple on tank.
okay so far?? good.
it is easier if you remove the air box.... if you do, careful of the soft screws
that clamp the rubber boots to the intakes.. they get chewed easily if you are
not careful and use the correct screwdriver...
dont forget the sensor at the back... just undo the cross head bolt and leave it
dangling...they are expensive to replace.. so be careful with it.
breather at back, hose for PAIR on Right, clip for air temp sensor on left, and
when the box is off the stacks, if you have a stock box, the vaccuum tube for
the flapper actuator...
remove box. (best to push Left handle bar all the way forward, and bring box out
have a good look around the compartment.. bolted to underside of tank is the
petcock.. notice no handle..bastards chopped it off!!...also, on far side under
the foam cover is the fuel pump. it has 2 hoses going to it.. on from the
petcock (main feed) on the bottom, and one on the top (return) goes to a nipple
on the front of the tank.
small cross head screwdriver, slightly loosen the 2 screws on the petcock shiny
front plate.. about 1 turn is sufficient. using a thin flat blade wedged onto
one of the side lugs, turn the petcock so the centre section is horizontal...
and the lugs are in a line verticle..(the petcock should be half turned) THIS IS
OFF... thats all you ahve to do to the main feed and petcock for the moment..
now go to the other hose...
get an absorbant rag and lay across the inside of the engine compartment..an old
towel / beer towel is a good one
now, using long nose pliars, squeeze the clamp on the tank end of the return
line and move the clamp down the tube so that you can grasp the tube without
interference from the spring or clamp.
with the small bung in your other hand, pull the tube off the nipple, and put
the bung on. (if you have got below redline there should be no spillage. if you
do get spillage, dont panic, just get the bung on as quickly as possible. there
is nothing that can get damaged by the fuel...except your eyes....so wear
protection if you feel you might need it.
now, remove the clamp and the spring. set to one side.
goto the pump end of the hose...remove the clamp as before, sliding it down the
tube....to remove the tube itself you will probably need to use a flat bladed
screwdriver to get it started...a small quantity of fuel will escape... dont be
with your new hose in your hand, hold it so the large bend is on the left, the
sharp upward kinked end directly in front of you. Notice 2 red dots on either
end of the hose????.. well, these MUST be horizontal and pointing towards you
so. a little engine oil, only a light smear, on the pump nipple, and slide the
straight end over and on, using your new 8-16 jubilee clip that you purchased
tighten it up, keep the jubilee bolt out of the way, I find it best to have it
pointing upwards, and tighten with a socket...else the petcock can catch on it
if the tank hinge is a bit loose..
make sure that the red dots are in the correct place, and tighten the clamp...
thread the spring on, and over the portion where the hose goes over the pump
nipple...put the other clamp on, bolt on the left...and do up so it sits pretty
close to the hose and stops the spring from moving.
Now... if you had fuel running from the return nipple when you installed the
bung, this is where, if you havent replaced a few of these hoses before, you
will loose a lot of fuel.
you need to be quick, but if you are too quick, the spring will come over the
end of the hose, get in the way and you'll loose a lot more...best to have a
nearly empty tank....and you can take your time.
now, with the hose sitting in is natural position, grasp the upward kink, and
WITHOUT TURNING OR TWISTING THE HOSE pull it straight upwards....it looks
awful..but remember, the hose sits in its natural position when the tank is
lowered. If you dont do this, the hose will kink. and you will ahve to get
another hose as once kinked.. its fucked... so use the red dots...it must be
pointing straight towards you when its installed on the nipple.
have a crosshead screwdriver ready to tighten the 8-16 jubilee clip, remove the
return bung, slip the hose over, get clamp on, tighten, check alignment of red
dot, check clamp tightness,,,let spring go ...PHEW!!! hopefully not too much
now, there should be no fuel leaking from anywhere, a quick wipe with a rag, and
then a dry finger to check is a good idea.
that part done!
while under the tank, pull the main feed line spring back about 2" off the
petcock, and check for signs of creasing or kinking.... if it looks like it has,
remove the clamp with pliars, pull the hose off (if fuel came out of return,
then gently pinch the main feed hose to stop it leaking) remove a little bit of
pipe so that the crease / kink now sits on the nipple itself...(dont take off
more than about 1") reinstall, and then put a 1/8th clockwise turn into the
pipe and reinstall the clamp. (when lowering the tank, this will then sit right)
put spring back in place...
NOW.... TURN PETCOCK BACK ON...the lugs must be horizontal...if you dont, you
will have problems.. the fuel pump is cooled using the fuel flowing around and
through it....hot pump and fuel = ?????????? and you will be restricting the
fuel flow, so your bike will run like a pile of steamy.
tighten the two screws holding the petcock face plate..
put bungs back under rear seat
refit airbox ..not forgetting flapper actuator vaccuum hose if still
fitted...push box onto intakes (a light smear of WD40 on the intake rubbers
aides installation immensly)
tighten the intake clamps first, making sure the rubbers are right down to the
stops, then pull box forward from the rear, and install the front bolt (make
sure bike is in gear and rolled forward before doing this!!)
refit breather....dont forget this goes INSIDE the bend of the return line..so
it must go to the rear of the return when tank is lifted... and PAIR hoses,
electrical connection for air temp sensor, and then the bolt at the back holding
the MAP sensor on. dont forget to tighten this bolt.... a socket with
screwdriver bit is a handy tool for this.
thats about it!! put bike out of gear, ignition on, let the pump cycle, flick
kill switch off, wait a couple of seconds then flick back on.. let pump cycle
again untill all the air has gone from the system.. you'll hear it.. normally
takes 3 or 4 goes
start bike..check to make sure no fuel is leaking from your connections with a
shut bike off.
lower tank, and check as it goes down that hoses sit in their correct position..
refit bolts holding tank on.. refit seat and seat bolts..
put tank stay back under rear seat... rear seat on..
any probs.. mail me!!